
Retaining Wall Installation
New retaining walls built to the right height, base depth and drainage detail for your slope and soil.
Retaining walls, concrete and hardscaping built for Inland Northwest slopes, soils and freeze-thaw.
Retaining walls, concrete and hardscaping built for Inland Northwest slopes, soils and freeze-thaw.
Mon–Fri 7:00am – 6:00pm · Sat 8:00am – 3:00pm · Sun Closed
No call centers — a real dispatcher answers.
Tell us what is going on. We respond fast — usually within minutes.
Drainage designed in, not added on
Nearly every failed wall in this region failed because water had nowhere to go. Drainage stone, filter fabric and outlets are part of the design, never an upsell.
We tell you when you need an engineer
Walls over four feet, surcharged walls and tiered walls generally need stamped drawings. We say so up front rather than building something that fails inspection.
Built for freeze-thaw
Inland Northwest winters move soil hard. Base depth, compaction and backfill are specified for frost, not copied from a warm-climate detail.
Written scope before work starts
Wall height, block type, drainage detail, geogrid layout and backfill material, all in writing. You can put it out to competitive bid.
Slope and erosion work, not just walls
Sometimes the right answer is regrading, terracing or planting rather than a taller wall. We will tell you when that is cheaper.
Clean sites, real restoration
Excavation spoil hauled away, access routes protected, and the lawn put back. Wall work is heavy and messy — the cleanup is part of the job.
New retaining walls built to the right height, base depth and drainage detail for your slope and soil.

New retaining walls built to the right height, base depth and drainage detail for your slope and soil.

Leaning, bulging and cracked walls diagnosed and repaired — starting with why it moved.

Full removal and rebuild of failed walls, with the drainage and reinforcement the original lacked.

Segmental block walls — the most common residential system, and the most commonly built wrong.

Natural stone and boulder walls that suit Inland Northwest terrain and handle irregular slopes well.

Treated timber walls for lower-height applications, plus honest advice on when timber is the wrong choice.

Multiple stepped walls that break a tall slope into usable levels — when spaced correctly.

Walls over four feet, surcharged walls and tiered structures requiring stamped drawings and permits.

Cast-in-place reinforced concrete for high walls, tight property lines and heavy surcharge loads.

Drainage design and retrofit — the single most common reason walls in this region fail.

Regrading, terracing and stabilization for slopes that are moving — sometimes instead of a wall.

Design, drawings and permit submittal handled — including telling you when you do not need a permit.
Poured concrete driveways built with the base depth, thickness and control joints Inland Northwest freeze-thaw demands.

Poured concrete driveways built with the base depth, thickness and control joints Inland Northwest freeze-thaw demands.

Poured concrete patios sized, drained and finished to stay flat and safe through Inland Northwest winters.

Walkways, paths and public sidewalks poured to correct width, fall and slip resistance, including ADA-compliant work.

Stamped, stained and coloured concrete that gets the look of stone or paver without the joints and the weeds.

Poured concrete steps, stoops and stairways built to consistent riser height on footings below frost depth.

Cracked, spalling and scaled concrete repaired or resurfaced, starting with why it failed in the first place.
Interlocking paver patios and paths laid on a proper compacted base so they stay flat and keep draining.

Interlocking paver patios and paths laid on a proper compacted base so they stay flat and keep draining.

Permeable and standard paver driveways built to vehicle loading, on a considerably deeper base than a patio needs.

Built-in fire pits, seating walls and outdoor kitchens that turn a patio into a space people actually use.

Yard drainage, French drains and regrading that move water away from walls, patios and foundations.

Stone, block and paver stairways connecting terraced levels on sloped Inland Northwest lots.
A dispatcher takes the details and gives you a real arrival window. If it is urgent, we will talk you through stabilising things while a crew is on the way.
A licensed contractor inspects the actual problem rather than quoting from a phone description, so the price you get is the price that holds.
You see the options and the cost before any work starts. If a cheaper repair will genuinely solve it, that is the one we recommend.
Most jobs are completed the same visit. We haul away what we removed, and the workmanship is warranted in writing.
If any of this looks like your property, it is worth getting eyes on it before the next wet season.
Outward movement means the soil behind the wall is winning. Bulging at mid-height points to water pressure with no escape route; leaning at the top usually means the wall was never tied back into the slope.
Standing water beside a foundation, patio or wall is the single most common cause of the failures we get called to. It is also usually the cheapest thing on this list to fix.
The top layer breaking away to expose the aggregate underneath is freeze-thaw damage, generally on concrete that was not air-entrained or has been exposed to de-icing salt.
Cracks that step or offset vertically mean the ground underneath has moved. Resurfacing over that reproduces the crack. Settled slabs can often be lifted rather than replaced.
Erosion after heavy rain or snowmelt means surface water is running where it should not. Sometimes a wall is the answer, and sometimes regrading and planting is cheaper and lasts longer.
The right choice depends on height, soil, drainage and what the wall has to hold back. Here is how they compare.

Interlocking concrete units, the default residential system. Fast to build, tolerant of minor settlement, wide range of finishes. Needs geogrid above about four feet.

Locally sourced basalt or granite placed and keyed into a battered face. Suits irregular grades and curves, and looks like it belongs in the Inland Northwest landscape.

Cast-in-place reinforced concrete resisting overturning through its footing rather than mass. The system for tight property lines and heavy surcharge loads.

Cheapest per square foot and appropriate for low garden walls and terraced beds. Shortest lifespan of anything here — the tie-backs usually fail before the face does.

Wire baskets filled with rock. Free-draining by nature, tolerant of ground movement, and increasingly used where an industrial look is acceptable.

Two or more stepped walls breaking a tall slope into usable levels. Tier spacing is the critical detail — too close and the upper wall surcharges the lower one.
12 cities and the communities around them. Not sure if you are covered? Call and ask — we will tell you straight.
Opportunity · Dishman · Veradale · Trentwood
99206, 99212, 99216, 99037
South Hill · Browne’s Addition · North Side · Latah Valley
99201, 99202, 99203, 99205, 99208
Rocky Hill · Legacy Ridge · River District
99019
Mission Ridge · Barker
99016
Ponderosa · Sullivan
99037
Millwood Historic District
99212
Newman Lake Road · Starr Road
99027
Sunset Shores · Muzzy Lane
99025
Eastern Washington University area · Betz
99004
Five Mile · Colbert · Green Bluff
99021
Riverbend · Prairie Falls · Greensferry
83854
Fernan · Sanders Beach · Riverstone · Hayden
83814, 83815
Walls are priced per square foot of exposed face rather than per linear foot, because a three-foot wall and a seven-foot wall of the same length are very different structures. What moves the number most is height, because height drives base depth and whether geogrid reinforcement is needed; then material, site access for machinery, whether an existing wall has to come out, and whether engineering and a permit are required. A short garden wall and an engineered wall holding up a driveway are different orders of magnitude. We quote after seeing the site, and the estimate is free.
Usually once the exposed height passes about four feet, though the exact trigger differs between Spokane Valley, the City of Spokane, unincorporated Spokane County and Kootenai County across the line. Surcharge changes it too — a lower wall holding back a driveway or structure can require a permit when the same wall in open ground would not. We confirm the threshold for your specific site before designing anything.
Almost always water. Saturated soil weighs far more than dry soil and pushes with hydrostatic pressure the wall was probably never designed to resist. Bulging in the middle points to water pressure with no escape route. Leaning at the top usually means insufficient reinforcement tying the wall back into the slope. Cracking at a corner often means uneven base settlement. The repair depends entirely on which of those it is, which is why we diagnose before quoting.
A properly built and drained block or concrete wall should last decades — the material is not what fails. Timber is the exception, with a realistic life closer to fifteen to twenty years in constant ground contact, and the tie-backs usually fail before the visible face does. Walls that fail early nearly always failed on drainage rather than materials.
Often it can be repaired, and retrofitting drainage into an existing wall is dramatically cheaper than rebuilding. Whether that is the right call depends on how far the wall has moved and why. Once a wall has rotated significantly or the base has failed, repair becomes throwing good money after bad. We price both options side by side so you can compare rather than take our word for it.
Yes, effectively always. A working system is drainage stone behind the face, filter fabric keeping soil fines out of that stone, a perforated pipe at the base, and an outlet that actually daylights somewhere. Miss any one of those four and the system does not function. This is the most commonly skipped part of wall construction and the most common reason walls fail here.
It depends on height, soil, drainage and what the wall has to hold back. Segmental block suits most residential walls. Boulder and natural stone handle irregular grades and look at home in this landscape. Poured concrete is for tall walls, tight property lines and heavy surcharge. Timber is cheapest but shortest-lived. Anyone who recommends a material before seeing the site is guessing.
Far enough apart that the upper wall does not load the lower one. A common rule of thumb is a horizontal setback of at least twice the height of the lower wall. Closer than that and the tiers stop acting independently — the upper wall becomes a surcharge on the lower, which then needs designing as a single taller structure, usually with engineering.
Yes. Post Falls and Coeur d’Alene are minutes over the state line and we work there routinely. Worth knowing that Kootenai County permit requirements differ from Spokane County, so we confirm which rules apply to your site before design.
Roughly April through October. Wall construction needs workable ground and reliable compaction, and frozen or saturated soil gives neither. We survey and design through the winter so projects are permitted and ready to start as soon as the ground opens up, which usually means a better slot than booking in spring.
Call (509) 351-7634 or request a callback — whichever is easier.